September veg garden 2015 12


No dig, few weeds, lots to eat

The second half of August was wet and humid here, perfect for weeds to germinate in the summer warmth. So what happened here? Almost none germinated on my undug beds, just a few around the plot edges where there is no compost mulch. By contrast, many new weeds have germinated on the dug bed of my experiment.

I have a bed of leeks which I covered with mesh in June and the cover stayed on for two months without needing any weeding at all, the photo shows how it looked when I removed the mesh, temporarily, there are perhaps still some leek moths flying.

Perennial weeds are different and keep growing unless you have managed to starve their roots of food, either by repeated removal of new growth, or by light deprivation with compost or polythene mulch, see next section. Homeacres beds were full of perennial weeds in early 2013, now there are none except for a little weak bindweed.

Late blight

Warmth and humidity bring this on, so keeping leaves dry is the main remedy. Outdoor tomatoes are extremely difficult to ripen in wet summers and once blight is established, it often kills plants before tomatoes can ripen.

Its one of many reasons why polytunnels are so useful.  I have only a very few leaves affected, and I remove them to compost (its safe to compost blighted leaves, fruits and roots). I am careful in damp, summer weather to water at soil level only, and to have no leaves touching the polythene. 

No late blight on Sarpo potatoes

I had a good harvest of Sarpo Mira potatoes on August 29th, helped by course participants, and there was no blight on their leaves. These potatoes grew on land reclaimed from weedy pasture with a 6in (15cm) compost mulch in December 2014, then polythene over the top in April when I planted the potatoes through slits in the polythene. All weeds are gone, including couch grass, but there is still field bindweed. Straight after harvesting the potatoes on August 29th, we planted mustards for autumn salad leaves. If I should have more of these leaves than needed, they make a good green manure.

Incidentally Sarpo potatoes will continue to grow through September and can be massive by October – but they risk becoming dry and starchy. Its reckoned that best flavour comes from harvesting now. They are tender, floury and taste good to me. Yield was equivalent to Charlotte but their top growth is unruly and spreads outward on long stems.

Course people here

Its a privilege to meet gardeners and growers from such varied backgrounds, all with a tale to tell and I learn a lot! On the recent weekend course Kevin Mascharenas brought his camera too (Samsung mirrorless) and a selection is below. 

Kevin is helping to set up some vegetable growing near Spitsbergen, nearly 80 degrees north, where the trees are 2 inches high! Ambitious to say the least, and they are buying a geodesic dome. Currently they are only beginning http://polarpermaculture.com

Salads for autumn and winter

It is go, go, go. 

Either you need to be planting outside now, from sowings made in the first half of August. I have final plantings to make of land cress, salad rocket, mustards and spinach. Also you can sow lambs lettuce outside asap.

Or sow seeds now, in modules, to plant undercover in October. In cooler areas sow asap. Here its milder and I sow mostly in the second week of September. I already sowed wild rocket and land cress because their seedlings are slow growing. See sowing timeline for details of what to sow now.

Lettuce root aphid

In late summer, lettuce always suffer from grey root aphids, but this year it has been worse than usual, perhaps because of dry weather in early summer. Whatever, once they keel over there is no remedy and I do not know hoe to prevent it either. Young plants resist the aphids better so sowings in early July are reasonably reliable for August and September lettuce.

Another remedy is to eat less lettuce at this time, by sowing endive and chicory in early summer.

I am always tempted to sow mustards and salad rocket in July, but have learnt hard lessons over the years that these July sowings suffer a lot of flea beetle damage in August, and often flower in September – so its better to sow in early August, for cropping September onwards.

Slugs and snails

Reduce habitat as much as possible, so they have nowhere to hide by day. Keep edges tidy and as short as possible, have few weeds and remove lower leaves of vegetables as soon as they show any yellow. I do this mainly for Brussels sprouts, cabbage and broccoli. I was impressed to find several snails hiding under a yellowing leaf of sea holly.

 

Compost making

Its a great time to turn a heap if you have finished one since the spring. I was lucky that Kevin was keen to do it! He reckoned the contents smelt a little anaerobic, for me that is normal at this stage and I find that the air introduced by turning sorts it out, being sure to break up any soggy lumps.

During the course we checked the temperatures of different heaps, with my foot-long thermometer,  and I was surprised that the mushroom compost heap which I purchased a month ago, is still 45C. My current heap is 65C a foot in at the top, and still 50C on the edge near ground level, where it was filled three weeks ago, thanks to a decent proportion of green and brown, about two thirds to one third.

 

 


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12 thoughts on “September veg garden 2015

  • Kevin Mascarenhas

    Hello Charles,

    I’m keen to follow the progress of the compost heap that we turned as it continues to mature. I’m really interested in the temperature readings and how what I perceived as an anaerobic environment transforms after a lot of turning and sifting. Thanks for an illuminating weekend. Look forward to scouring the forums for helpful information, it looks like a treasure trove!

  • Rhys

    Here in NW London, we had 4 inches of rain the past two weeks, which has turned an arid landscape into one with plenty of water in the soil. The celery has really loved it! The outdoor tomatoes under the car port are now ripening beautifully, including the beefsteaks. Anyone interested in making Rosada seeds should use 20-30 fruit, as you only get one seed per fruit! I was making them for our neighbour and only asked for 5 fruit, so I guess I must hope that all the seeds germinate so I can cadge one next spring.

    We have the rocket and chard transplanted already and the directly sown Pak Chois are now a good size. The first roots on turnips are becoming visible. Spring onions, cabbage and Kale are germinated and ready to go into pots (leaves). Final sowing of the year is the Senshyu onions this week.

    Mightily impressed with the first full season of no-dig……….

    • charles Post author

      Hooray that is encouraging and well done, your sowing and crop care sound really good.
      Amazing you had that much rain, we had 4.7 inches in the whole month.

      • Rhys

        At least half that rain was in two monsoon-like deluges lasting 30 – 60 minutes. The rest was fairly steady seepage, just what works well on soil.

        By the way, the celeriac you gave me at the day course in June is still looking good for a fine harvest. Only one of my own grown ones survived to maturity, and it’s still smaller than yours.

        I”ve had a few failures too, Charles! Sowed the parsnips in the wrong place so the crop will be smaller (hopefully more tasty as a result!) The Broad Beans were a total bust as the black fly came so early and the over-wintering plants failed. I didn’t thin out all the Nantes carrots quite enough so some patches didn’t really produce decent sized roots. And the runner beans are only now coming into harvest – about a month later than normal here. I guess it was a combination of drought, the black fly etc.

        But overall, I”m happy to testify that your methods work and are applicable by amateurs without much gardening experience.

    • Rhys

      Update on Rosada seed making: when I took the seeds to my neighbour she gave me more fruit (12) to make some more and, this time, there were plenty per seed. Don’t know why there was a difference, but maybe a small fruit like Rosada needs to develop a bit longer on the vine to produce plenty of seeds – there were certainly deep red the ones in August.

  • Bridget

    I came on your course last weekend 29/30 aug. and was mightily impressed. Have returned home planning to convert to no dig method and grow salad leaves. I need to provide additional polytunnel and greenhouse. Budget dictates small greenhouse but wondering if single skin polycarbonate or twin wall polycarbonate is better. Horticultural glass is so fragile and toughened glass so expensive. What are your views, please?

    • charles Post author

      Hello Bridget. For salad there is little need to pay the extra cost of twin wall and single skin lets a bit more light in. Good luck with the salad and I look forward to hearing.

      • Bridget

        Hi Charles, thank you for the advice. Greenhouse on order. Busy building compost bins as my present ones too small. I have sown lots of the seeds you suggested in modules. Lets hope we have a mild winter and a warm spring! Good luck with your open afternoon on Sunday.

  • Bridget

    Hi Charles,new polycarbonate greenhouse is up and lots of seeds set in modules. Quick question: what do you do with really nasty weeds such as ground elder and bind weed. I am nervous about including them in the compost heap. What do you do, please? Bridget

    • charles Post author

      I put them all on the compost heap.
      As long as you are loading the heap often enough that they do not regrow, they will extinguish. Saves time sorting and adds good minerals, life forces. (Weeds are vigorous…)

      • Bridget

        Hi Charles, thanks for the advice. I will be brave! Lots of cutting back in flower garden to shred and add to compost heap on top of the weeds. Good point about the life forces. I had never thought of that.
        Bridget